10 Changes I’d Seen in Yangon After Seven Years

Jocelyn Cheung
5 min readFeb 5, 2020

--

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon

I first came to Yangon when I was living in Hong Kong in 2013. Back then, I liked to travel to lesser-known countries. Myanmar came to my decision of next travel destination because of the film, The Lady.

Downtown Yangon (2013)

I was excited to see big changes this time in Yangon. After some years, I changed my travel lifestyle — no longer eager to travel to lesser-known places. Instead, I travel for good purposes. Meditation brings me back to Myanmar.

This post is sharing ten notable changes in Yangon, compared to seven years ago.

Burmese are better off

Jewellery shops are busy serving local Burmese. In 2018, GDP per capita for Myanmar was US$1,300, increased from US$1,188 in 2013. Most of the high-income class are the younger populations, aged 25–49. They have higher earning power because of education, more business opportunities and country opening up trading.

Smartphones are common

Back in 2013, I remember I saw people still using those huge portable mobile phones. That time I felt like I travelled back in time. But today, we can easily find OPPO, Huawei and electronic stores on the streets of Yangon. Teens were watching a local drama on the train, surfing Facebook, taking selfies, and playing games. Without noticing, possession of owning a smartphone per household jumped more than doubled, from 13% in 2013 to 33% in 2019.

Very cheap mobile data

Getting a SIM card was very easy. After a quick search on Google, I decided the network that works best for me — Ooredoo’s 1GB prepaid data plan for 30-day, costs only 3,000Kyat (US$2), even less than a proper meal. There are two other network providers — state-owned MPT and Telenor. Affordable mobile data helps to accelerate digital advancements in many ways.

Free visa for Hong Kong passport holders

This is one of the motivations persuaded me to visit again. Myanmar eases visa rules to boost tourism. The country turned to target Asian travellers because of the decline of Westerners. The humanitarian crisis of Rohingya made a very negative impression to Europeans. To attract Asian tourists, South Korea, Japan, and Macao are the other five Asian countries granted free visa. Last time I had to get my visa application at the Myanmar embassy and paid a fee.

Much cheaper flights

Back then, there weren’t many options flying to Yangon, only scheduled airlines. I took Cathay Pacific, flying from Hong Kong, and it costed me about HK$5,000 (US$643). This trip I flew AsiaAir, and the ticket from Kuala Lumpur to Yangon, a two-hour flight, only priced MYR114 (US$28), see a huge difference. Airlines now have frequent trips to Yangon, and Mandalay, the second-largest city.

More new hotels and condominiums

Walking the downtown streets in Yangon, you will find some modern housing tuck between colonial old residential buildings. Luxury shops at Junction City. Pan Pacific is one iconic landmark. Myanmar moved up six places to 165th of World’s Ease of Doing Business 2020 Report. The government is practising market economy system, opening its door for foreign investments. FDI surged in 2018, making up 5% of total GDP. Countries like Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand, Philippines, Cambodia and Malaysia are the leading investing countries. With the government’s Investment Promotion Plan 2018 (MIPP) over the next 20-year period, Myanmar is gaining attention.

Food delivery guys

It surprised me a little, seeing Foodpanda, GrabFood and some local delivery guys on their way to customers. They are very new. GrabFood just launched in Yangon one month ago. How much do Burmese spend on food? A bowl of noodles at a street vendor costs 500–800Kyat (35–50cents). A bowl of Shan noodles at a local restaurant cost between 2,000–3,000Kyat (US$1.3–2.0). According to Euromonitor data, consumer expenditure on food per capita doubled from 2013 to 2019, to reach 707,824Kyat (US$487), which is like about US$1.3 per day.

More accommodation options

New and modern hostel are sprouting up in downtown Yangon. Stay experiences are matching other cities like Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. I stayed at HOOD Hostel, which is a new establishment opened by Malaysians, very relaxed and spacious in Ikea-style. HOOD hostel employs local students. The initiative is to offer students experiences in hospitality on-the-job. Superior than other hostels, really a great experience, exactly hotel service at hostel prices. I applaud the potential and competitiveness of the future young generations. Speedy WiFi service, free breakfast, local tours such as food and heritage walks seem to be the standards.

ATMs around, money changers offer competitive rates

As more tourists from Asia visiting Yangon, major currencies are available for exchange. Unlike seven years ago, when I had to have US dollar exchanged before visiting the country. It was also not a problem for me to find an ATM that accepts MasterCard. But, note that these machines mainly located in downtown Yangon. The 50 million population in Myanmar is still primarily unbanked, with 74% of Burmese don’t have a bank account, and only 5% holds a debit card, less than 1% have a credit card. One out of four people live below the poverty line. But this could be changing very fast. I saw signs of digital money, like WaveMoney, in shops. Neighbouring countries are opening access of digital remittance to Myanmar; sooner the government is pushing QR-codes too.

More variety of food

I’ve noticed a variety of local cuisine, like Shan noodles, Chinese Burmese dishes, and Indian biryani are readily available in downtown Yangon. Though I have fade memories of what it was like seven years ago. I research on Google map, read the reviews. I enjoyed food hunting on the map. Some of the popular ones I’d tried are Aung Mingalar Shan Noodle Shop, 999 Shan Noodle Shop, Mya Sabei (a bakery shop popular among locals), Shwe Taung Tan Kyay-O. Locals dine on street sides, sitting on very small chair, enjoying noodles, fruits, street food desserts. But, on a regional standard, there might need some improvement in hygiene.

--

--

Jocelyn Cheung

Freelance in market research, from HK based in Southeast Asia, helping businesses to understand markets better. Linkedin@jocelyn18 |